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A rough path east, two awkward miles and some stiff climbs along the way, completes the journey. The stone itself is nondescript, but its brass plaque, well weathered after less than two decades, pays homage to on of the most fascinating characters motor racing has ever known: "Robert Mac Gregor Innes' Ireland," it reads, "Scotland's First Grand Prix Winner. 12.6.1930 - ." There is a strange and strangely uneasy juxtaposition between the bleak and windswept setting and the high-octane lifestyle of the man the memorial honours.

Yet in a sense it is also fitting that so complex and contradictory an individual as Innes Ireland should be remembered in such an intriguing way.

In a tribute to Stirling Moss's powers of concentration, Ireland offered himself as a contrast: "I would find myself in the middle of a race, thinking about the party we would have that night," he wrote.Yet he clearly had salt as well as petrol in his veins, a love of the seas that was also expressed in sailing, particularly off the north-west coast of Scotland.It was that activity that brought him to Camas Mor - the big bay - in the first place.Two weeks after winning in America, Ireland was sacked from the team.The precise reasons were never revealed, but Ireland was to hold a grudge against Clark, who became Lotus's number one driver after he had gone, until his fellow Scot was killed in a racing accident in 1968.

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It is a remote spot, lonely and isolated even by the standards of Wester Ross.

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